A Night in the Sahara Desert in Morocco: What Really Happens

Yes, if you can give it the time. The ride in, the silence, the stars and the sunrise on the sand are what travelers remember, more than any monument. It is also simpler than most people fear: the bathroom is in your tent, and your luggage is waiting at camp.

It is not for everyone. The desert is far from Marrakech and Fes (at least three days for the whole trip), the night is cold in winter and hot in summer, and there is no phone signal you can rely on. If you only have an afternoon or one night near Marrakech, read Agafay or the Sahara first: Agafay is a rocky desert 40 minutes from the city, not a dune desert.

Which Sahara? The word covers a vast area across many countries, and photos of other places are mixed into the search results. This guide is only about Erg Chebbi in Morocco, the dunes I grew up beside. For the place itself, see our Erg Chebbi guide; for Morocco’s other dune sea, read Erg Chebbi or Erg Chigaga: which to choose.

The camel ride takes about 1 hour 20 to 1 hour 30 and stops on a dune for the sunset. You keep your phone, water and a jacket with you; the suitcases travel separately by 4×4 (usually a Toyota Hilux) and are already in your tent when you arrive.

You do not have to ride:

• If you cannot or would rather not ride a camel, we take you to camp by 4×4.
• Children who want to try can ride with a parent or relative on the same camel.
• If walking or mounting is difficult, the camel leader, a helper and the camp staff can help you on and off. We check what is safe for you before we promise a ride, so tell us when you ask.

On a windy day we may change the order, as explained in the wind section below. If you are coming from Marrakech, our Marrakech to Merzouga guide explains how the drive and the first night fit together.

Strong wind and sandstorms are most common from late June through July and August. They usually start around midday and can last into the evening, sometimes until about 7 to 9 pm. Mornings are often calmer.

When the wind makes the sunset camel ride impractical, we drive you to camp by 4×4 and keep the camel ride for the next morning if you want it. In the evening you stay in your tent or in the camp restaurant, where dinner, the fire and the music can be moved indoors. The cost is the stargazing: on a windy night you may not see the sky well. I cannot give you a fixed rule for how often it happens or a formal cancellation policy, so ask us about the month you are planning.

Travelers often ask about snakes and scorpions, and about walking to the toilet in the dark. Here is what I can say honestly.

• Snakes and scorpions: in all our years we have had no incident with a guest. In my experience snakes keep away from the busy, noisy parts of a camp. Cats live around the camps. I cannot say there is no risk in a desert, and I will not.
• The toilet at night: at the camps we use, the toilet and shower are private and inside your tent, so you do not walk across the camp.

For safety in the country more broadly, see Is Morocco safe?

A camp is not the only way to spend a night in the dunes. We arranged a night with a nomad family for a couple from Poland who wanted something more authentic than a camp; we can do it again when a family agrees to host. A second night in the dunes also gives you time for more sandboarding, a quad ride and a visit to a nomad family. Ask us. The Erg Chebbi guide has the details.